From Family Secrets to Fine Dining: London's West African Culinary Evolution
By Jay Burgesson Carter, Founder of The Ripe Avocado
Okay, let's talk about what's happening in London's food scene right now. As someone who runs a premium, boutique catering company, inspired by my West African Heritage, I spend a ridiculous amount of time eating my way around London's restaurants. It's "research," I tell my team. They roll their eyes. But honestly? It's where we draw some of our best inspiration. It’s how we stay current with general food trends and discover what some of the best in the business are getting up to. What's got me SO excited, of late, is seeing that West African cuisine is starting to get the space and recognition it deserves.
From a secret culinary club to Michelin stars
Growing up eating West African delicacies with my family it almost felt a secret, my dad would take me to Shepherd’s Bush market to pick up authentic ingredients and he’d know all of the stall holders by name, they’d have a good catchup and we’d then take the produce back to my Nana’s house in West London where she’d work her magic.
And what magic it was! We're talking Ghanaian egg stew with fufu (imagine the most comforting dumpling you've ever had), Moi Moi (this gorgeous steamed pudding made with beans and spices), and of course, the cornerstone of any West African feast – jollof rice. Back then, it felt like we were part of this exclusive foodie club, and only those in the know got to experience these incredible flavours.
Not anymore…
The new kids on the block - Akoko & Akara
Last week, I revisited Akoko, and OH MY GOODNESS ME what a treat! My first visit to this Michelin starred restaurant was last year when we were in the chaos of launching The Ripe Avocado, and honestly, it was all a bit of a haze. But this time? Pure magic. Seeing the dishes I grew up with being served in a Michelin-starred setting – it fills my heart with absolute joy.
My beloved Moi Mois accompanied by rich yet slightly sweet mackerel and coconutty Vatapa and perhaps some of the most sophisticated Jollof rice I’ve ever eaten all graced our table.
Yet, their stand out dish, for me, has to be the Goat, Cashew Cream, Exmoor Caviar Tatale. This collision of West African tradition with the luxurious, salty delicacy of caviar is a stroke of genius, and something I don’t think I will ever tire of eating!
Founder Aji Akokomi and his team have created something truly special here, showcasing the best of African produce in a fine dining setting that isn't overly fussy. It's like they've taken our "secret club" and thrown open the doors to everyone.
Then there's Akara in Borough Yards – Akoko's sister restaurant. Mark my words, this will soon be a Michelin family of restaurants. My first visit blew me away so much I had to drag Sam, our executive chef, back there for some "menuspiration".
The vibe? Effortlessly chic under those railway arches. But the food – oh, the food! Their fried chicken bites with Soso kaani sauce (think tangy meets sweet in the most moreish way) are ridiculous. If you're looking for your first venture into African cuisine, or if you're chasing childhood memories like me, Akara is HANDS DOWN the place to go.
Why it matters
Having spent 16 years eating my way through every London restaurant imaginable (tough job, but someone's got to do it), seeing West African cuisine finally getting its moment in the spotlight is something special. For too long, people dismissed it as just stews and carb-heavy dishes. But places like Ikoyi, Akara, Akoko, and Chishuru are showing everyone just how refined and artistic these flavours can be.
At The Ripe Avocado, we are NOT specifically a West African caterer – but we ARE in the business of creating experiences that make people sit up and say, "Well, I wasn't expecting that!" Whether it's Sam's Spanish touches or my West African influences, we're all about surprising those clients who think they've seen it all.
What's next?
Chishuru and Shakara are next on our hit list (purely research, of course..!). In a city where our clients have literally tasted everything, it's our job to keep pushing boundaries and finding new ways to surprise them.
And you know what? If that means we need to keep eating my way around London's best restaurants, well...sign us up!
My little black book of West African restaurants in London
If you feel inspired and want to seek out a dining experience that takes West African cuisine to a new level, check out some of my other recommendations:
Ikoyi (2 Michelin stars)
Chishuru (1 Michelin star) as soon as I go, you’ll know!
The Barbary Michelin Bib Gourmand
805 Restaurants Operating since 2001, great tasting and great looking food.
Enish Truly delicious and wonderfully authentic
Kudo Collective Modern European cooking with a South African twist in trendy Peckham.
Shakara Chef Ayo Adeyemi, formerly of Akoko, is a part of the kitchen team, so naturally I can’t wait to see what this place has in store.
